Thumbs Down: Zeal Food for Enthusiasts

Zeal- Food for Enthusiasts, a not-quite one year old establishment, has just fired their second executive chef in ten months. First time restauranteur Wayde Jester has, according to comment from his staff, refused to listen to advice from veterans in the industry and has preferred to run a place where people are fired for not fitting in with the “love will see us through” front of the house philosophy that has formed a cult of sorts in the management.

Front of the house issues have been apparent from the start, which is expected when one has no experience and tries to play restauranteur without listening to and following the advice of industry professionals who have worked hard and done this all before. But, the back of the house was originally staffed with professional chefs with experience at OAK at Fourteenth, L’atelier, Frasca, and Jax, to name a few successful restaurant models here in town.

The most recent shift has brought A Bolder Table to the decision to boycott Zeal. Their executive chef, Sean Smith, had poured everything he had into running that kitchen and was called in for a meeting on his day off to be blind-sided and fired, effective immediately, with no severance, for doing a great job and working incredibly hard, but not leaving the kitchen to socialize with Zeal’s guests. I’m sorry folks, but chefs usually don’t socialize- they run the kitchen and make your dining experience possible with the help of the front of the house staff being there to touch tables and mingle with diners. Wayde Jester fired a chef with no one next in line to be trained in Sean’s duties. Staff moral is very low and each and every employee has reached out to Sean in tears, outrage, or just plain disbelief.

The “love is all we need” facade will only last so long. Showing zero love to one of the most hard working and important employees of their establishment is the antithesis to who they say they are.

*Disclaimer- Sean Smith is connected to A Bolder Table, so we are not just passionate about the issue, but know all of the dirty details.

Summer Tasting Tour

Local Table Tours was recently asked by the Boulder Convention and Visitor’s Bureau to bring a travel writer around town to some of our favorite spots for an evening dining tour. Sounds like fun!

As it was a Tuesday, we started at Cured to enjoy their weekly Tuesday evening wine tasting, and followed that with a delicious cheese and charcuterie platter prepared by their esteemed manager, Jessica.

Cured Cheese Plate

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jessica knows her way around cheese and gave us a great taste of old world and new world cheeses and meats. We could have sat there nibbling and learning about cheese all evening, but we were heading over to Bramble & Hare for a few cocktails and local farm bites.

Bar manager Griffin Farro, widely acclaimed as one of the best bartenders in town, created three different libations for us to try: A beet cocktail with juice from Black Cat Farm’s beets,

Beet Cocktail

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

one with carrot puree from their carrots, called Skokan’s Garden,

Skokan's Garden

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and a bartender’s choice, which allows Griffin to play around behind the bar.

Bartender's Choice

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next came a beet salad with house made ricotta cheese (and please pardon the lighting, as Bramble & Hare is a very dimly lit establishment).

Beet Salad

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then arrived some ridiculously good Mac & Cheese

Mac & Cheese

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

followed by some of the most tender chicken wings ever. Period.

Chicken Wings

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chef/owner/farmer Eric Skokan came to greet us at this point and wouldn’t reveal a single secret about the mac & cheese nor the wings. It was worth asking, but didn’t get us anywhere close to figuring out his finger-licking-good secret.

And then it was time to walk a block away to Boulder’s highly acclaimed OAK at Fourteenth for our entree, or so I thought. OAK spoiled us with four courses of seasonal food and drink pairings. Sous Chef Bill Espiricueta started us off with a deconstructed gazpacho, served by pouring the tomato broth table side.

Deconstructed Gazpacho

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The light and perfectly prepared gazpacho was appropriately paired with a Monk’s Garden, a tail of basil and tarragon infused vodka, Green Chartreuse, cucumber, lavender, and lime (which can barely be seen in the photo above, just behind the spout of tomato broth being poured into the bowl).

Next, we enjoyed some corn and ricotta stuffed ravioli and a rose from Provence. Perfect. Simply perfect, except for the fact that licking our platters clean would have been frowned upon.

corn and ricotta ravioli

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our ravioli was followed by wood-fired oven roasted chicken on a fresh corn slaw and a corn cake, paired with a Firestone Walker beer.

roasted chicken

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But, there’s ALWAYS room for dessert, right? There was definitely room for a mini peach bourbon milkshake.

Peach Bourbon milkshake

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This was an incredible taste of Boulder. Ah… the life of a food tour guide is very tough.

 

Zeal- Food for Enthusiasts. Three Farms in Three Courses

Zeal has been a great addition to the east end of Pearl Street. Executive Chef Sean Smith, formerly of OAK at Fourteenth, runs a very busy kitchen serving diners who are looking for a healthier dining experience. The organic, non-GMO eatery also partners with Conscious Cleanse by offering daily dishes that are cleanse friendly and periodic three course meals so cleanse participants can enjoy dining out while not breaking the rules of their two week plan.

The August three course farm to table Conscious Cleanse dinner featured freshly picked produce from three great farms: Toohey, Red Wagon, and Munson Farms. Our first bite, or amuse, was deconstructed Toohey Farms Armenian cucumber and dill soup with avocado, dill flowers, and Himalayan pink salt.

Amuse at Zeal

This was a pretty, perfect bite.

Our appetizer was Red Wagon Farm chard wrapped around sautéed Hazel Dell mushrooms with either curried green lentils, the vegan option (left) or a chard wrap stuffed with duck confit (right).

chard wrap

duck confit chard wrap

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The two entree options were Munson Farms summer squash “pasta” with either roasted seasonal veggies and herbed shitakes (left), or squash “pasta” topped with bison meatballs and roasted carrots (right).

veggie summer squash pasta

bison meatballs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, the dessert course offered two options as well: avocado and carob mousse (a strange concoction for vegans) or a Colorado peach and wildflower honey granita.

avocado carob mousse

Peach Granita

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This was a really good, healthy dinner, especially when you consider Chef Smith had to abide by the highly restrictive cleanse guidelines that don’t allow gluten or many of the summer’s bountiful harvest, such as nightshades. And for non-cleanse diners, our only critique is we wanted more of that Himalayan pink salt on our plates.

Cured de France: Enjoy your cycling with cheese.

Just as the World Cup reaches its final days, competitors in another major international sporting event, the Tour de France, begin tearing over mountain passes and through city streets on their bikes. And Cured, Boulder’s premier cheese, charcuterie and wine shop, is helping Tour de France spectators in Colorado celebrate the epic race with food and drink that honors different stages of the race.

The Tour begins this year in Leeds, England, passing through a number of towns – among them, Harrogate, York, Sheffield and Cambridge – before crossing the English Channel for the race’s namesake country. For the English leg of the Tour, Cured offers Montgomery cheddar, the most legendary of English cheddar cheeses, and Robinson’s Old Tom Ale, a classic English ale with just enough power, funk and bitterness to pair gorgeously with the cheese.

“Montgomery’s cheddar and Robinson’s Old Tom Ale are made just down the road from each other, and it turns out when the flavors meet, they embrace,” says Will Frischkorn, a former professional cyclist and Tour de France racer who co-owns Cured with his wife, Coral. “Because there are few things better than a good cheddar with a good beer, we are taking a departure from the wines of France. There is something special about proper cheddar and beer pairings. In this case, maybe it’s that the beer and cheese grew up so close to each other – they share similar flavors and richness in profiles. In addition, the carbonation in beer helps create fantastic pairings. This one is especially wonderful.”

Each summer Cured hosts its own Tour de France, a trip much easier to complete than the 21-day trek around France. Will breaks down the Tour into eight stages, each corresponding to between three or four days of racing. Each stage connects the cheeses and beverages with the region the racers are pedaling across. As the riders make their way clockwise around France, Cured de France “racers” follow along with cheese and wine or beer.

The Provisions

Each stage, available individually or as part of the whole package, comes with a healthy chunk of cheese and a drink to pair. Most beverage pairings are wine, but given the English leg of the trip this year, exceptional beer figures into the Cured de France, too. Prices vary between $25 and $50, depending on the stage; the entire bundled tour costs $295. People who go for the gusto by participating in the entire tour receive the newly released Looney Bin bottle cage from Arundel, designed to hold a bottle of wine, beer, or just about anything else, loaded up with a bottle of Cured’s House wine as a thank you and a congratulations on your effort!

Cured de France boxes are available for pick-up at the store, or for $95 a box gets sent to your doorstep at the start of each stage.

Stages:

Stage One: July 5-7 (England)

Stage Two: July 8-10 (Northern France)

Stage Three: July 11-14 (Northeastern France)

Stage Four: July 15-18 (Eastern France and Southeastern France)

Stage Five: July 19-21 (Southeastern France and Southcentral France)

Stage Six: July 22-24 (Pyrenees)

Stage Seven: July 25-26 (Bordeaux)

Finale: July 27 (Paris)

“At the finale,” said Frischkorn, “we guiltily enjoy Champagne and a wedge of Fougerus while the riders finally get off their bikes and bid goodbye to the 101st Tour de France.”

A “Best of” Tour de Boulder

July 2, 2014 – July 2, 2014

1235 Pearl Street

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Description:

Megan is coordinating a Best of Boulder tour for a small group, highlighting the food scene that makes us so well-known and respected. Restaurants, Foodie Specialty Shops, The Wednesday Farmers’ Market, and more. We’re looking forward to this unique tasting tour.

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Becky and Friends Private Lunch-hour Tour

June 6, 2014 – June 6, 2014

1235 Pearl Street

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Description:

Becky had so much fun on tour with us that she’s invited her friends for a lunch-time soiree to some of Megan’s favorite Pearl Street hot-spots.

OZO

Coffee, great food, chocolate, and talking about all things food with Local Table Tours’ Founding Foodie.

Pice Love & Chocolate

 

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Cassie’s Bachelorette Party Progressive Dinner Tour

Cassie has a lovely group of friends, and it was a lot of fun organizing a progressive dinner to some of Boulder’s best restaurants and bars for this group of cocktail-loving foodies.

We started at OAK at Fourteenth for a house-bottled soda as our first cocktail. When the bride-to-be tells me she wants a dinner that features cocktails, it’s pretty much a given that we’re going to include OAK.

OAK soda

I also wanted to start off on the lighter side, so OAK’s Kale and Apple salad made a great first stop.

OAK at Fourteenth Kale Salad

Cassie let me know that cocktails were preferred, and beer tasting would be fun, but they weren’t much of a wine-drinking crowd. So, beer flights all around at our next stop, West Flanders Brewing.

West Flanders beer tasting

West Flanders seated us in their second floor dining room and let each one of us pick the four beers we wanted to taste. They served some Hummus with Flatbread and Veggies and Devils on Horseback (bacon wrapped dates… love them!) for our second appetizer stop.

Our third stop was another cocktail and an entree at Riffs. The group enjoyed a light cocktail paired with a Mahi-Mahi dish prepared exclusively for us.

Riffs cocktail

Riffs Mahi-Mahi

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were delighted to hear Chef Platt was serving this dish only to us this evening. It wasn’t on the menu, wasn’t a special, but made just for our group. Nice touch!

After organizing a number of progressive dinners and bachelorette parties, I’ve learned that dessert isn’t really craved and devoured my most people, especially ladies. So, I made our last stop another cocktail at The Bitter Bar and gave everyone a little chocolate goodie bag prepared for them by Piece, Love, and Chocolate so they could enjoy dessert at their leisure.

Bitter Bar

Cheers, ladies! It was a really fun evening.

Les Dames d’Escoffier Taste of Boulder Tour

Les Dames d’Escoffier of Colorado are a lovely group of ladies, or dames, if we dare declare, who are a women’s philanthropic organization that raises money for women entering the culinary field. Local Table Tours was honored to bring them on a tasting tour to a handful of Boulder’s best establishments.

Les Dames at OAK

Our first stop was OAK at Fourteenth for a “healthy” start to our afternoon. OAK has been known for a couple years now for it’s kale and apple salad. Chef Steve Redzikowski started serving this salad well before kale was cool, and it’s been a staple on their menu since they opened. No culinary excursion to Boulder is complete without a taste of OAK, as it continues to be listed among the top restaurants in Colorado.

OAK at Fourteenth Kale Salad

We enjoyed the kale salad with a taste of a cocktail, as OAK is lauded not just for it’s fantastic food, but for it’s beverage program by co-owner Bryan Dayton as well. We enjoyed a light tail called The Steph, which is named after a frequent customer of Dayton’s bar .

The Steph

We had a nice table in their private dining room, The Acorn Room, and as with many tours, just as soon as we were comfortable, it was time to move on… to cheese. Cured was our second stop and one of their managers and cheese aficionados, Jessica, offered us some tastes of her absolute favorite cheeses- a Kunik, Dunbarton Blue Cheddar, and Pleasant Ridge Reserve. My personal highlight of this tour was when she told us we were tasting a brand new wheel of Kinsman Ridge that she herself had not yet tasted. This wheel was made by the Landaff Creamery and aged at Jasper Hill, which means a WHOLE LOT to you if you follow artisan cheese. If you don’t, all you need to know is it’s a delicious cheese and you’d like to buy at least a 1/2 pound.

Cured Cheese Tasting

From Cured we went to Zeal- Food for Enthusiasts, for a nice chat with Culinary Director Arik Markus and a taste of a cold-pressed juice cocktail, falafel (which features carrot pulp from the juicer) and hummus. Zeal is Boulder’s newest restaurant, and has quickly become an excitingly popular place for healthy, clean food on the east end of Pearl Street. We could have sat at their community table all afternoon talking about food, but it was yet again time to move on.

Zeal Boulder

By this time we were running a few minutes late, but our next stop, Locale Boulder, was luckily right next door. We arrived to a table of ten Aperol Spritz cocktails, which undoubtedly caused ten smiles. A spritz, arancini, and pizza allowed us a nice time to relax, eat, drink, and talk about the Colorado food scene. It became clear at this point that Local Table Tours’ guides have a VERY difficult job (smile).

Les Dames at Locale Boulder

Our dining experience at Locale was highlighted by a taste of their Budino, a perfect pudding that you MUST try.

P1050132

After our first dessert, we were invited to visit the Stefano Ferrara oven,  a 1,000 degree wood burning oven that is relatively cool to the touch on the outside. This is always a surprise to tour guests. How could something thats SO HOT be approachable…?

Stefano Ferrara Oven at Locale

After a tour through the immaculate kitchen of Frasca Food & Wine, an introduction to their glass polishing room, and exiting through the formal dining room, we continued on to our second dessert at Piece Love & Chocolate. Sarah Amorese, owner and chocolate expert, not only introduced us to her chocolate boutique, but offered us tastes of baked goods, truffles, chocolate covered candied bacon, and sipping chocolate.

Pice Love & Chocolate

This was an incredibly fun afternoon, and we at Local Table Tours look forward to doing something like this again soon.

 

Pizzicletta Pedals its way into Boulder for Two Nights

Last year Pizzeria Locale featured guest chef Chris Thompson of San Francisco’s A 16 for two nights here in Boulder. Some friends and I had an exceptional dining experience that I documented on A Bolder Table. This year Caleb Schiff of Pizzicletta in Flagstaff, AZ, came to Boulder to be featured for two nights at Locale. Last year I had the privilege of dining in the Caffe rather than the pizzeria, and it was so much more quiet and intimate, so I requested a six top in the Caffe again, found five special guests, and arrived with an appetite.

Pizzicleta offered a prix fixe menu at $18 per person for three courses. Just as the A 16 dinner last year- this was without a doubt the best deal on dinner in town.

Pizzaiolo Schiff offered a Contorno (veggie side dish), a choice of two pizzas, and a choice of two gelati. Amongst the six of us, we tried everything plus a couple bottles of wine.

Our contorno was Melanzana alla Diavola- tomato, chili, eggplant, ricotta, lemon zest, and basil.

This rolled slice of eggplant stuffed with cheese on top of one of the most delicious tomato sauces I’ve ever had left all of us wanting more as we pretty much devoured every morsel on our plates. We were off to a great start.

Next came le pizze and we had a choice of red or white.

The Calabria had that amazing tomato sauce, calabrian chili, fresh ricotta, and oregano. 

The Amore Oi Marí pizza had marscapone, pecorino romano, prosciutto di parma, arugula,and queen creek meyer lemon olive oil.

As I frequent Locale both on culinary tours and as a hot spot for dining with friends, I’m pretty familiar with the manager and servers. That was a real bonus for my group of friends and me because Dan, the manager, asked guest chef Caleb Schiff to greet us. Caleb didn’t just come and say hello- he introduced each course to us and answered all kinds of questions from my group. It was truly educational and delectable. Caleb explained to us that his dough is a sour dough that he makes with natural yeast. He arrived in Boulder a couple days early to make and proof his dough, and it was such fantastic dough that were money not an issue I’d travel to Flagstaff at least once a month just for a taste of his pizza. I was so completely satiated with his pizza at Locale that it warrants a trip to AZ to taste this pizza made in Pizzicletta’s own oven to experience the blistery “leopard-spotted” crust Caleb is known for.

I could go on to talk about dessert, but at this point I’d like to say the private dining experience in il Caffe is one not to be missed. Frasca and Locale will rent the Caffe for small gatherings, and it’s a very intimate, fun experience. Be careful though- The servers can hear everything, so if your quirky friend Matt starts talking about the whale jerky someone sent him from Japan, the pizzaiolo might come by to hear all about it.

After learning all about this mysterious whale jerky (which I got to try a few days later, by the way) Caleb introduced our final course, Gelati.

I got to try both desserts. I ordered the Roasted Almond Gelato which had a fine texture of almond nibs. My chef companion Sean went for the Olive Oil Gelato.

 

Pizzicletta features extra virgin olive oil from Casa Pau Hana Olive Oil Farm in Paso Robles, CA. I don’t recall ever tasting olive oil ice cream, and the few bites I had set the bar really high for any future olive oil ice cream. Chef Caleb explained to us that he gets very fresh olive oil (freshly pressed), and he enjoys cooking with it because it imparts a very sweet, fruity taste not necessarily found in olive oils that were bottled months before being opened.

By the end of the meal, we were all full, satiated, and quite happy to have enjoyed each others’ company in the private space offered by il Caffe. I’m already looking forward to Pizzeria Locale’s yet-to-be-announced next pizzaiolo.

Cheers!

 

 

Pizzeria Locale- Pizza Dough To Go

There was no plan for dinner. Then, the plan was to order two pies from Pizzeria Locale to go, but I had just stocked up on produce at the Boulder farmers’ market, so ordering pies felt wasteful. And then the lightbulb went off- Why not buy their dough and make pizza at home? I tell almost all of my tour guests who get a taste of Locale that you can buy their dough to make pizza at home, yet I’d never tried it for myself. The results- a successful experiment in home cooking that I highly recommend.

I picked up two perfectly mixed, kneaded, and proofed balls of pizza dough that Locale sells for $2.50 per ball. Each is measured out to make one pie at Locale, so I decided to make two different pies.

Locale provides you with some simple instructions, so even novice pizza makers can make a pie at home. The biggest difference in your pie versus their pie is the oven temp. The Stefano Ferrara oven at Pizzeria Locale burns around 1,000 degrees and cooks each pie in 75-80 seconds. That was NOT happening in my house, so I turned my oven as high as it goes (450) and let it and a pizza stone heat up for an hour.

Meanwhile, I caramelized a yellow onion, crumbled Humboldt Fog cheese, sliced a local pear and apple, grilled an eggplant and garlic, and nibbled non-stop until I was ready to roll out the dough.

And let me tell you something about this dough- It feels amazing in your hands. I used to pride myself on making pizza dough from scratch at least twice per month for years and it never felt like this. Granted, I wasn’t using Caputo brand 00 flour, so if I REALLY want to experiment, I suppose I can pick up a bag of that at il Caffe and start from scratch… but I’ll leave that until another day.

I made two pies- The first was caramelized onion, kale, apple, pear, and Humboldt fog. It baked for close to ten minutes, and though not “wet” in the middle like at Locale, the crispy crust was perfect for slicing.

The second pie had a layer of heirloom tomatoes with grilled eggplant, garlic, and parmesan cheese. I can’t say which I preferred, as they were both really good, simple pies.

This was a fun and easy dinner, and I’ll definitely repeat it. Living around the corner from Locale actually makes it a little too easy on me now that I know I can make a fantastic dinner in a snap.

 

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